Kate Hennessy : Freelance Writer

First published on Mess+Noise, here.

Never trust anyone over 30 (to review a music festival). Known for our pernickety gripes, misanthropic snipes and general nitpickery often we can’t see the wood (the music) for the trees (the irritations). The task is handled better by breezy early-20-somethings to whom those perennial festival agitations (lack of dunnies, shade, cheap booze and nice food; glut of dickheads, schedule clashes, short sets and clusterfucks) make barely a blip on the radar. To counterbalance my years, I decide to go all in for Sydney’s Laneway Festival figuring that if frustrations arise I’ll self-soothe by catching a chillwave act.

"Kirkbride" ~ Photo c/o Elize Strydom

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Kate Hennessy dons her blacks and joins 20,000 Goths in Germany at the world’s most un-colourful festival.

(See photo gallery here)

He stalks by the tram stop in head-to-toe black PVC, thighs squeaking like rodents. Sunlight glints from studs around his neck long enough to skewer a steak and his face scowls out from behind a fragile scaffolding of chains and piercings. Yes, I think. We’ve arrived.

Each year in May or June, the German city of Leipzig hosts the biggest Gothic and dark culture event in the world – the four-day Wave-Gotik-Treffen (WGT). More than 20,000 of the Gothic diaspora heed the call to come and swamp Leipzig in black.

Photo: Kate Hennessy. Leipzig Opera House for Diamanda Galas. Outfit care of the amazing Imaginarium Apparel: http://www.theimaginariumapparel.com/

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First published on Mess+Noise, here.

Last time I saw solo guitarist and singer Kirin J Callinan (Mercy Arms/Jack Ladder) he tried to sell me a two-track cassette tape for $40 (ONO) at the merch table. In a display of effeminate pique onstage, Callinan had flung his nylon jacket over a stage light and speculated, “I wonder if you’ll all still be standing here when it bursts into flames?” The coat steamed angrily until an unimpressed security guy plodded over to pluck it off. And somewhere amid the silliness and the eccentricity, Callinan delivered a performance of fitful incandescence that even won over the non-committal early crowd. Me included.

Goodgod crowd (Photos by Rafaela Pandolfini)

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Most tourists who visit Peru’s Sacred Valley will whip around its famed capital, Cusco, then beeline it for iconic Incan ruin, Machu Picchu. Both are wondrous sights and tourists looking for photographs and souvenirs will return home satisfied. But for seekers rather than sightseers, the Sacred Valley also offers ayahuasca: a potent, hallucinogenic, shamanic healing medicine.

My experience begins a month before Peru while visiting a friend in California. At a dinner party I mention I’m interested in shamanic healing. A guest says he’s just returned from an ayahuasca retreat in Iquitos in Peru’s Amazon jungle. Humid and buggy, Iquitos is the centre of Peru’s ‘psychedelic tourism’ boom but he warns me Iquitos is intense for first-timers.

“Go to the Sacred Valley. It’s gentler there.”

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Goodgod is hellishly hot and fire-trappy. The ceiling, always imminent, feels even lower and bodies shine with sweat. Flanked by a bassist and a keyboard player, Geoffrey O’Connor materialises onstage in a wizardly billow of smoke and lasers, his guitar draped Springsteen-style from his shoulder.

Geoffrey O'Connor. Image C/O Chapter Music: chaptermusic.com.au

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